PINDARI GLACIER

TO ones who had been long confined in the din of city life, trek to Pindari Glacier is surely a kind of balm that soothes their life for a while, presenting a glimpse of an idyllic life which allures everyone towards a more spiritual living that now a days no one dares to pursue, as he has long been banished from its heavenly bliss.  Leafing through the pages of our memoirs of Pindari Glacier trek always returns the joy of revisiting the place. I can still remember our car coming to a halt at village Saung, which was the starting point of our trek. Then the 3 km leisurely upward stroll up to KMVN Trekkers Hut at Loharkhet          (1750 m/5775 ft) where we halted for the first night. Then the most arduous part of the trek that came the very next day --- the steep upward trail upto Dhakuri pass (11 km). But the vast amphitheatre of peaks from KMVN Trekkers Hut at Dhakuri (2680m/8844 ft), most prominent amongst them is Maiktoli, alleviates all kind of fatigue and covertly allures all for more pursuit of such beauty which is abundant in the whole path.   

From Dhakuri , the next halting place is village Khati (2210m/7293 ft), some 8 km away. Though the path becomes downward & allures one and all to cover it on the same day one starts from Loharkhet, it is advised not to yield to the trap. Here nature beacons you, she takes care of you to recharge your shattered body and soul so that you can take on the pangs of this mundane everyday life more vigourously.  Rather the next day, you can double march upto Dwali (2575m/8498 ft) since the first 8 km stretch upto Khati is mostly downwards. The next 11 km stretch from Khati to Dwali is also moderate. After Khati, you will always have the river Pindar by your side. Midway from Khati to Dwali one will first cross the river in this trek. Have some tea at the make shift tea stall built at the river bed to gather enough courage to cross the river over the narrow log bridge with nothing to hold! At the end of the day Dwali  KMVN Trekkers Hut awaits you at the confluence of river Pindar & rivulet Kafni that comes from Kafni Glacier, some 20 km away.  

Khati

Pindar river

Dwali

The next day trek is only 5 km moderately upward upto Phurkiya(3206 mt/11541 ft) , the last habitable place in this route. Since there is no hurry, feast your eyes with the abundance of natural beauty of the trail. The magnificent Nanda Khat peak will always attract you. Looking minutely at the other side of the river, you may notice some sure footed mountain goats ( “Bharal” in local tongue) hurrying somewhere.

Towards Phurkiya

The night at Phurkiya KMVN lodge will be remembered for its uncanny chill coming down the spine. Ironically, it will help you to get up early, to get ready for the final part of the journey, to Pindari zero point (3900m/12870 ft), near the source of Pindar river. Wear all your winter clothing to be out at 5 in the cold morning, with torch in hand to trot in the mild dark beaten track, created by footprints of your previous travellers. The dark will gradually fade, the first ray of sun on the tip of Nanda Khat peak is sure to uplift you from your sleep walking. This extraordinary place has already cast its magic spell on you. From now on, your only mantra will be to move on, until you reach the ashram of Shri Dharmanandaji, some one km before the zero point. Well built with boulders, this ashram is somewhat out of place with its solar cells & modern gadgets. Still glass full of tea & delicious aloo paratha served to you alleviates all those creepy questions.

And now Pindari zero point. Standing there placing yourself at the midpoint, you can see almost a complete circle of snow clad peaks surrounding you; notables are Baljouri, Nandakhat, Nandakot and Changoch. There is the lure of Trail’s Pass over Pindari Glacier. If this trek has done enough to make you a man of adventure, you may plan to cross the pass someday to reach Milam valley on the other side. But that is no less than a serious mountaineering expedition & requires at least basic mountaineering training & full equipments to attain that higher kind of nirvana.

Brief summery of the trek

Day 1: Started from Calcutta, boarded train for Lucknow

Day 2: Reached Lucknow in the evening, boarded metre gauge train for Lalkuan

Day 3: Reached Lalkuan, reached Bageshwar by share jeep. Halt at Bageshwar

Day 4: To village Saung by share jeep, then 3 km stroll up to KMVN trekkers’ hut, Loharkhet

Day 5: To Dhakuri KMVN, crossing Dhakuri Pass, a steep upward journey, total distance 11 km

Day 6: To Dwali via Khati, total distance 19 km

Day 7: Reached Phurkiya KMVN, 5 km from Dwali

Day 8: To Pindari Zero Point and back, halt at Phurkiya, distance covered 14 km to and fro

Day 9: Return journey, to Khati via Dwali 16 km

Day 10: To Dhakuri, 8 km

Day 11: To Saung via Loharkhet, 14 km. Trek ends. Up to Bageshwar by jeep

Day 12: To Nainital by jeep

Day 13: Boarded train in the evening from Kathgodam

Day 14: Train

Day 15: Calcutta

Food and basic lodging with cot, mattress and blanket is available at KMVN trekkers’ huts at Loharkhet, Dhakuri, Khati, Dwali and Phurkiya. One has to carry only the winter clothings and other personal belongings. However there are a number of fine camp sites to pitch your tent in this trail.