DOOARS' DIARY

 The scence started changing as the train re-started from Siliguri station. Soon filthiness of township remained behind and wilderness abound. We crossed Tista river at Sevok.Then the jungle started. Whistling through dense forests and occassional tunnels we touched some sweetly named railway stations like Bagrakot,        

Tapovan Resort, Lataguri

Oodlabari & Damdim until we reached New Mal junction, the starting point of our dooars tour.

    It took us only about 45 min through lush green jungle and tea gardens to reach Tapovan Resort at Lataguri by hired jeep. Situated at the fringe of Gorumara National Park, Lataguri is one of the most convenient places to explore Dooars with its jungles, tea gardens, numerous rivers with vast river beds, wild animals and multitude of birds to fill your hours of solitude with fullness of natural bliss.

    It takes a half day to visit Gorumara National Park which is rich in natural & wildlife treasures.
Beauty of the forest in a misty December morning with all its chill can be best experienced from its Jatra prashad watch tower, named after the most beloved kunki (trained) elephant of the place. Herd of Indian Gaur, occassional elephant near the salt pit,or lonely Great Indian Hornbill are some of the common sights of this national park. 

Gorumara National Park

 
While getting out from Gorumara National Park, we spent some time by watching activites in a nearby tea garden,how women of different ages were sorting out two leaves and a bud with their brisk experienced hands.




   

Tea garden at Gorumara

      


Murti River

 
In the afternoon we went to Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary en route to Nagrakata, crossing river Murti. We spent some time by the river where scenic beauty is truely magnificient. At Chapramari we saw Indian Gaur in abundance near the salt pit. Some Peacocks were seen, too.

Chapramari Wildlife Santuary




Chapramari Watch Tower

The next day we visited Jhalong. The path was uphill after Chapramari & beauty of the whole route was eye soothing. At Jhalong we had a good view of nearby Bhutan hills & river Jaldhaka. We returned to our resort after visiting Jaldhaka hydel project at Bindu.

 The rest day at our resort was spent in listening to the hermitic silence of the jungle, occassionally broken by cacophony of peacock's call. At the afternoon we went by car for half an hour to the entry point of Medla watch tower from where we reached the place near the confluence of rivers Murti & Jaldhaka by buffalo cart. Spending some time at this picturesque place, we went to the nearby forest hamlet (Kalipur & Chottoya bon basti) to enjoy cultural programme presented by an Oraon tribal group.




Lataguri

    

Jhalong



 
 

 

 
 

  

 

View from Medla Watch Tower








View from Medla Watch Tower

 The last day we had an early lunch and visited Samsing and Suntalay Khola, about one hour journey from Lataguri. At Suntalay Khola, there is the fine resort of West Bengal Forest Development Corporation,
where solitude seekers may rest for two or three days.At nearby Samsing, we saw strawberry plantation and visited the dilapidated Samsing tea estate. We boarded down Kanchankanya Exp. from New Mal junction in the evening for Calcutta.


                                                                                                                                                                                                    

Suntalay Khola



Strawberry plantation at Samsing



Distance at a glance:

1. New Mal junction to Malbazar   3.2 km

2. Malbazar to Lataguri                  29 km

3. Lataguri to Gorumara                 3.8 km (towards Malbazar)

4. Gorumara to Jhalong                  53.2 km

5. Jhalong to Bindu                         11 km

6. Lataguri to Samsing                    40 km

7. Samsing to New Mal junction     27 km

13149 Up Kanchankanya Exp departs from Sealdah everyday at 20:30 hr to reach New Mal junction at 09:13 hr the following day.

13150 Dn Kanchankanya Exp departs from New Mal junction everyday at 18:40 hr to reach Sealdah at 08:15 hr the following day.

PINDARI GLACIER

TO ones who had been long confined in the din of city life, trek to Pindari Glacier is surely a kind of balm that soothes their life for a while, presenting a glimpse of an idyllic life which allures everyone towards a more spiritual living that now a days no one dares to pursue, as he has long been banished from its heavenly bliss.  Leafing through the pages of our memoirs of Pindari Glacier trek always returns the joy of revisiting the place. I can still remember our car coming to a halt at village Saung, which was the starting point of our trek. Then the 3 km leisurely upward stroll up to KMVN Trekkers Hut at Loharkhet          (1750 m/5775 ft) where we halted for the first night. Then the most arduous part of the trek that came the very next day --- the steep upward trail upto Dhakuri pass (11 km). But the vast amphitheatre of peaks from KMVN Trekkers Hut at Dhakuri (2680m/8844 ft), most prominent amongst them is Maiktoli, alleviates all kind of fatigue and covertly allures all for more pursuit of such beauty which is abundant in the whole path.   

From Dhakuri , the next halting place is village Khati (2210m/7293 ft), some 8 km away. Though the path becomes downward & allures one and all to cover it on the same day one starts from Loharkhet, it is advised not to yield to the trap. Here nature beacons you, she takes care of you to recharge your shattered body and soul so that you can take on the pangs of this mundane everyday life more vigourously.  Rather the next day, you can double march upto Dwali (2575m/8498 ft) since the first 8 km stretch upto Khati is mostly downwards. The next 11 km stretch from Khati to Dwali is also moderate. After Khati, you will always have the river Pindar by your side. Midway from Khati to Dwali one will first cross the river in this trek. Have some tea at the make shift tea stall built at the river bed to gather enough courage to cross the river over the narrow log bridge with nothing to hold! At the end of the day Dwali  KMVN Trekkers Hut awaits you at the confluence of river Pindar & rivulet Kafni that comes from Kafni Glacier, some 20 km away.  

Khati

Pindar river

Dwali

The next day trek is only 5 km moderately upward upto Phurkiya(3206 mt/11541 ft) , the last habitable place in this route. Since there is no hurry, feast your eyes with the abundance of natural beauty of the trail. The magnificent Nanda Khat peak will always attract you. Looking minutely at the other side of the river, you may notice some sure footed mountain goats ( “Bharal” in local tongue) hurrying somewhere.

Towards Phurkiya

The night at Phurkiya KMVN lodge will be remembered for its uncanny chill coming down the spine. Ironically, it will help you to get up early, to get ready for the final part of the journey, to Pindari zero point (3900m/12870 ft), near the source of Pindar river. Wear all your winter clothing to be out at 5 in the cold morning, with torch in hand to trot in the mild dark beaten track, created by footprints of your previous travellers. The dark will gradually fade, the first ray of sun on the tip of Nanda Khat peak is sure to uplift you from your sleep walking. This extraordinary place has already cast its magic spell on you. From now on, your only mantra will be to move on, until you reach the ashram of Shri Dharmanandaji, some one km before the zero point. Well built with boulders, this ashram is somewhat out of place with its solar cells & modern gadgets. Still glass full of tea & delicious aloo paratha served to you alleviates all those creepy questions.

And now Pindari zero point. Standing there placing yourself at the midpoint, you can see almost a complete circle of snow clad peaks surrounding you; notables are Baljouri, Nandakhat, Nandakot and Changoch. There is the lure of Trail’s Pass over Pindari Glacier. If this trek has done enough to make you a man of adventure, you may plan to cross the pass someday to reach Milam valley on the other side. But that is no less than a serious mountaineering expedition & requires at least basic mountaineering training & full equipments to attain that higher kind of nirvana.

Brief summery of the trek

Day 1: Started from Calcutta, boarded train for Lucknow

Day 2: Reached Lucknow in the evening, boarded metre gauge train for Lalkuan

Day 3: Reached Lalkuan, reached Bageshwar by share jeep. Halt at Bageshwar

Day 4: To village Saung by share jeep, then 3 km stroll up to KMVN trekkers’ hut, Loharkhet

Day 5: To Dhakuri KMVN, crossing Dhakuri Pass, a steep upward journey, total distance 11 km

Day 6: To Dwali via Khati, total distance 19 km

Day 7: Reached Phurkiya KMVN, 5 km from Dwali

Day 8: To Pindari Zero Point and back, halt at Phurkiya, distance covered 14 km to and fro

Day 9: Return journey, to Khati via Dwali 16 km

Day 10: To Dhakuri, 8 km

Day 11: To Saung via Loharkhet, 14 km. Trek ends. Up to Bageshwar by jeep

Day 12: To Nainital by jeep

Day 13: Boarded train in the evening from Kathgodam

Day 14: Train

Day 15: Calcutta

Food and basic lodging with cot, mattress and blanket is available at KMVN trekkers’ huts at Loharkhet, Dhakuri, Khati, Dwali and Phurkiya. One has to carry only the winter clothings and other personal belongings. However there are a number of fine camp sites to pitch your tent in this trail.

MONDARMONI



Mondarmoni



Hotel Neel Nerjone

 

Hotel Resturant (Palki)

 

Resturant Palki




Lure of idleness.....

 


Lure of idleness.....



Lure of idleness.....

Mondarmoni beach




Lure of idleness.....

 

Mondarmoni Beach

Mondarmoni Beach

SALTOLE BELA DUBILO

    শালতলে বেলা ডুবিল

কী দিয়ে যে লেখাটা শুরু করি. যখন একটি সাত বছরের সবুজ মন পুরুলিয়ার কোন এক   অখ্যাত অজ্ঞাত স্টেশনে নেমে লরিতে চেপে বাবা কাকাদের সঙ্গে পাড়ি দিয়েছিল অযোধ্যা 

পাহাড়ে. নাকি আরো বছর পাঁচ ছয় বাদে যখন সে রুকস্যাক 

পিঠে নিয়ে পৌঁছেছিল  বাঘমুন্ডি বা শিরকাবাদের ক্যাম্পিং 

গ্রাউন্ডে. ভোরবেলায়  ঘুম ঘুম চোখে ট্রেনের জানলায় নাক

ঠেকিয়ে দেখেছিল সূর্যের প্রথম আলোয় মায়াময় রুক্ষ

ঢেউ খেলানো পৃথিবীকে. শীতের ঠান্ডা বাতাসের ঝাপটায়

প্রাণে পুলক লেগেছিল, চোখে ঘনিয়েছিল ঘোর. মহুয়ার মাদকতার মতোই সে নেশা রক্তে সঞ্চারিত হয়েছিল, কোন এক অদৃশ্য বন্ধনে জড়িয়েছিল কোন এক ব্যাকুল প্রাণকে. যে অমোঘ টানে বহু বছর পরে কর্মসূত্রে ফিরে এসেও মনে হয়েছিল, কোথাও তো যাই নি আমি, এই তো সবই সুস্পষ্ট 

রকম চেনা, যেন সবেমাত্র গতকালের কথা.

১৯৮৭ সালের হাল্কা শীতে প্রথমবার পুরুলিয়ায় এসেছিলাম.বাবার পাহাড়ের ক্লাবের এ.জি.এম অযোধ্যা  পাহাড়ে. তখন সদ্য নবীন প্রাণে

বিভূতিভূষণের স্নেহস্পর্শ লেগেছে .আম আটির ভেঁপু চোখে মায়া অঞ্জন

পরাচ্ছে, অপরাজিত করে তুলছে ভাববিহ্বল. বরাভুম স্টেশনে ভোরবেলা ট্রেন থেকে নেমে উঠেছি ময়লা ফেলার ডাম্পারে.

সে এক অদ্ভুত মজার ব্যাপার.এক বাড়ির বারান্দার পাঁচিলে  কোন  দাঁড়িয়ে ডাম্পারের কাত হয়ে আসা অংশে ডিঙ্গি মেরে উঠে হামাগুড়ি দিয়ে উঠে যেতে হবে

ওপরের দিকে. তারপর সেই ডাম্পার আস্তে আস্তে সোজা হয়ে আসবে, আর নাগরদোলায় চড়ার 

মতো মেঝে আঁকড়ে বসে থাকতে হবে যতক্ষণ না সে সোজা হয়.আমার প্রথমবারের পুরুলিয়ার 

স্মৃতি এইরকমই শরত কালের ছেঁড়া ছেঁড়া মেঘের মতো.অল্পস্বল্প মনে আছে, খোলা গাড়িতে 

যেতে যেতে প্রায়শই গাছের ডাল থেকে মাথা বাচানো, আর গাড়ি অযোধ্যায় ওঠার সময়

ভাঙা পথের রাঙা ধুলোয় সর্বাঙ্গ মাখামাখি হয়ে যাওয়ার কথা.আবছা মনে আছে 

ইউথ হোস্টেলের সামনের মাঠে তিন কিশোরের ব্যাট বল খেলা, আর তাকে ঘিরে তুচ্ছ সাময়িক  

বিবাদের কথা.বাকি সবকিছু বিস্মৃতির ব্ল্যাক হোলে চিরকালের জন্য বিলীন হয়ে গেছে. 

পুরুলিয়াকে ভালোবাসলাম ইউথ হোস্টেলের ক্যাম্প করতে এসে.দশ বছর বয়স থেকে যে নধর 

চিকন ছেলেটিকে তার মুগ্ধ জননীর আঁচল থেকে বছরে দিন সাতেকের জন্য আডভেন্চরমুখী

করে তোলার প্রয়াস তার বাবা নিয়েছিলেন, ততদিন তা  পাকাপাকি ভাবে শিকড় গেড়েছে. পাহাড়ে 

হাঁটার প্রাথমিক পাঠ টুকু সাঙ্গ হয়েছে সান্দাকফু বা হর-কী-দুনে. এখন সদ্য শিঙ ওঠা হরিণছানার

মতো সে ব্যাকুল উপল বন্ধুর পথে হারিয়ে যাওয়ার জন্যে. ইউথ হোস্টেলের ক্যাম্পে ফল ইনের লাইনে 

দাঁড়িয়ে তাই সে ছটফট করে, কখন সে পাহাড়ের গা বেয়ে হ্যাচোর প্যাচোর করে উঠবে,কখনই বা 

চোরকাঁটার  খোঁচা খেয়ে কোমরের দড়িতে বেঁধে নামিয়ে আনবে সন্ধের ক্যাম্প ফায়ারের জন্যে ফায়ার 

উডের বোঝা. জঙ্গলের পথ বেয়ে হঠাত মুগ্ধ বিস্ময়ে তাকিয়ে থাকা স্বতঃস্ফূর্ত বামনি ঝোরার দিকে.

শাল, মহুয়া,পলাশ, কুর্চির পাঠ নিতে নিতে প্রতিনিয়ত জারিত হওয়া এক আশ্চর্য রকম মুগ্ধ বোধে.

ততদিনে বনের সোদালি গন্ধ নিশির ডাকের মতো হাতছানি দিয়েছে. ক্যাম্প ফায়ারের আগুনের সামনে 

গোল হয়ে বসা দীপ্ত মুখগুলো মেতে উঠেছে হানড্রেদ মাইলস বা পথের প্রান্তে কোন সুদুর গাঁয়ের সুরে.

বাঘমুন্ডির কিশোর ভারতী আশ্রম বিদ্যালয়ের আবাসিক ছেলেরা সন্ধের আধো অন্ধকারে শুনিয়েছে  

তাদের খালি গলায় প্রার্থনা সঙ্গীত "আকাশ ভরা সূর্য তারা বিশ্ব ভরা প্রাণ ......"

সেই যে ভালো লেগেছিল আলোর নাচন পাতায় পাতায়,তার রেশ আজো রয়ে গেছে. পূর্বজন্মের স্মৃতির 

মতোই মেদুর হয়ে ফিরে ফিরে আসে আশ্রমের ছেলেদের ছৌ নাচের ছবি,শিরকাবাদের বান্দু নদীর

ধারে তাঁবু খাটিয়ে রাত্রি বাসের ছবি. আজো কাজের ফাঁকে মন ছুটে যায় মুরগুমা, চরিদা কিংবা 

বান্দোয়ানের পাহাড় তলিতে. কৌতুহলী বিস্ময়ে গাম্ভীর্যের পর্দা সরিয়ে সামনে চলে আসে সেই সব স্মৃতি,

যার টানে ফিরে ফিরে দেখি এই লালমাটি শালবনের দেশটাকে. কর্মজীবনের মনখারাপ গুলো নিমেষে 

মিলিয়ে যায়  পাহাড়ি পথের বাঁকের ইশারায়, পলাশের লালিমায়. অস্তগামী সূর্যের আলোয় পোড়ামাটির জীর্ণ 

মন্দিরগাত্রের মায়াময়তার মাঝে সন্ধে নামে. রাখIল বালকের তাড়নায় দ্রুত ফেরা গরুর পায়ের ছন্দে আলোয় 

ধুলোয় মেশে রুক্ষ প্রকৃতি. সমস্ত চরাচর যেন এক বিষাদের সুরে বেজে ওঠে. শালতলে বেলা ডুবিল........ 

Mukutmanipur a weekend destination

 



WAY TO MUKUTMANIPUR





Mukutmanipur is a popular weekend destination of West Bengal, barely about 270 km from Kolkata, via Bishnupur and Bankura.Though we reached the place from Purulia town of the state, which is about 80 km from Mukutmanipur(via Manbazar) in an wintry weekend of end November.It is noted for an eleven km long dam at the confluence of Kansai and Kumari rivers





WAY TO MUKUTMANIPUR



 Fooding depends on the choice of ones place of stay, but apart from Peerless Resort, food is ordinary in other places and nothing to claim much in respect of their cullinary excellence.As regards shopping, there are some makeshift shops selling local artefacts, among those terracotta items of Panchmura(near Bisnupur) are worth mentioning.



SUNSET





A BOAT RIDE

Boating at the water enclosed by the dam is definitely a memorable experience.There is a deer park on the other side of the lake that can be reached by boat.A drive along the dam by ones private car or hired auto gives a fine overview of the vast panoramic beauty of the adjacent area.There is a Kali temple at Ambikanagar,3 km away, considered to be a holy place among the local people.



  

MUKUTMANIPUR



MUKUTMANIPUR



Mukutmanipur can be reached by ones own car, buses ply at regular intervals from Kolkata.However, one can also take train upto Bankura, then take bus or hired vehicle for Mukutmanipur, which is 55 km away.Other nearby town is Purulia which is 80 km away.If u wish to visit Purulia after Mukutmanipur,u can plan accordingly.The place changes her attire according to the mood of the changing seasons of palash,rain and winter and caters to the eyes and mind of all who search for tranquility from their busy schedule for a while.